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From harsh gorges to sweet hills, wild woods to fertile plains transformed by wise and varied cultivations; oases of fresh, crystal-clear spring water; chis is the typical Umbrian landscape - a region spread over 8456 sq. kms., nestling between Tuscany, Marche and Lazio. The area is divided between plains, hills and mountains but, as statistics show, it is the mountains which prevail. 53% of the total surface is classified as mountain terrain, 41% hills and the remaining 6% as plainland. Profound differences and contrasts make the countryside extremely varied; a result of the geological, hydrographical and climatic features of the area.
The Mountains and the Hills
Towards the Marches (le Marche) the Appenine chain winds in a north-west
south-east direction. The peaks of these mountains rarely rise above 1500
metres and only in the extreme southeast do they reach a height of 2476
metres with the imposing Mount Vettore and its summit of Redentore in the
Sibilline range, only part of which is in Umbria. The prevalently limestone
relief creates huge stores of water and numerous springs. Conical
depressions known as dolines or multiple basins with swallow-holes are
common. The most famous of these basins are chose of Castelluccio above
Norcia at about 1300-1400 metres, dominated by Mount Vettore with
Colfiorito at 750 metres.
The rivers are almost all a part of the Tevere irrigation basin. In the mountains
they have gouged out deep, narrow gorges such as that of the Nera river, one
of the major tributaries of the Tever along with the Sordo, Corno and Velino
rivers which meet at the Marmore waterfall. The lake of Piediluco, fed by the
waters of the Nera, opens out with Mounts Corno, Caperno and dell'Eco in
sight.
The steep crevices of the south west fluvial zone are a stark contrast to
the rounded tops covered with meadows and the tectonic basins with the
typical karst limestone erosion and wide lakes, found for example on the
Piano Grande of Castelluccio di Norcia. The northern mountains are less
harsh wich the alluvial basins of Gubbio and Gualdo Tadino. Moving west is
the distinctly flatter but hilly upper valley of the
Tevere. The agriculturehere is continuous, ranging from the ancient tobacco
crop, introduced in 1575 in San Giustino and now concentrated around Città
di Castello, to vineyards and the more recent cultivations of tomatoes and
peppers.
Towards Tuscany, framed by a gentle landscape planted wich vines
and olives, is Lake Trasimeno. Returning south one encounters the smooth
hills of the sub-Appenines, with wide flat areas of intensive fruit-farming.
The Plains
The plains areas are made up of fluvial valley floors, karst plains and alluvial
basins ever-present between the hilly and mountainous zones. The valley of
the Tevere, whose upper and middle reaches are on Umbrian territory, is a
large basin interrupted by a series of broader sections such as are found at
Città di Castello, Umbertide and Todi. It becomes more of a real valley along
the south-western borders of the region. The Valle Umbra is the largest of the
Umbrian river basins. It runs along the whole arc from Torgiano to Spoleto and
is fed by the rivers Marroggia, Clitunno, Topino and Chiascio. The basin of
Lake Trasimeno, part of the basin which covers the vast depression of
Valdichiana, and the Terni basin, which has similar origins, complete the
lowlands of Umbria.
Natural Beauty Spots
Human intervention, the morphology of the area and its vegetation have
created a region of great attraction for tourists.
The Marmore Waterfall
It is not perhaps universally known that chis waterfall is no natural
phenomenon but was engineered by the Romans in the 3rd century B.C.. It is
formed by the waters of the Velino river and Lake Piediluco which cascade
into the Nera from a height of about 160 metres. The force of the water is
exploited by a hydroelectric power plant.
The Clitunno Springs.
Situated near Trevi the springs are immersed in an enchanting oasis of peace
which has inspired generations of poets from Virgil to Carducci. The waters
surge in weil-heads from cracks in the rocks and gather in a small lake no
more than 4 metres deep. They then flow north along the "Forma Nuova", an
ancient artificial river bed whose purpose was to transport water to the mills of
Pissignano. If one observes carefully the bottom of the lake between the
island and the road it is possible to see the white sand bubbling from the
eddies of in-coming water. About 1 km along Via Flaminia just below the small
Temple of Clitunno, the springs of Vene del Tempio emerge from the chalky
limestone.
The Fossil Forest of Dunarobba
A fossilised deposit of remains of large Taxodiaceae tree trunks similar to
sequoias, the forest developed about 1,200,000 years ago on the banks of the
ancient lake Tiberino which occupied all of the valley between Spoleto,
Perugia and Todi.
The Plain of Castelluccio
This closed valley is a phenomenon of karst water erosion of limestone. It is
divided into Piano Grande, Piano Piccolo and Piano Perduto. Of tectonic
origin, it is at a height of about 1300 metres between Mt. Vettore and Mt.
Ventosola. The surface waters are absorbed by a karst swallow-hole at the
foot of Mt. Ventosola.
Limestone Grottoes of Mt. Cucco To reach Mt. Cucco
one turns off the Via Flaminia at Sigillo (Gubbio). Access to the grotto is by
way of an easy mule track and then a pathway from the village. One
descends to the grotto below the mountain top by a 30 metre-long iron ladder.
It is advisable to use a safety rope. The cave, which extends for about twenty
kilometres and is 922 metres deep, constitutes the largest limestone system
in Italy. The chambers normally accessible are those on a level at the main
entrance, and they run for about 500 metres. The complex is connected
hydrogeologically with the Scirca springs.
The Oasis of Alviano Extending over an area of 800 hectares betwen Alviano, Guardea,
Montecchio and Civitella, the lake basin has an average depth of 30/50 cm. It
was formed by a damming of the Tevere. It is a humid area, ideal for the
passage and nesting of rare migratory birds for the delight of bird-
watchers.
The Plain of Colfiorito This vast area of 1840 hectares is at a height of about 750 metres above sea
level. It is one of the multiple drainage basins with a grassy flat bottom and
marshy features typical of the karst phenomena in Umbria. In 1977 it was
declared a wetland zone of international interest and hosts a swamp which is
permanently waterlogged.
The Springs of the Nera Gorges In the deep
incision of the calcareous rock in the stretch between Lecinetto and
Neramontoro are numerous springs which pump out a total of 19 cubic metres
of water per second.
The springs of Lecinetto and Neramontor are extremely
charming as they emerge from a small karst cave closed by a door, as are
those of Lavatoi which gush out at Stifone and pour into the Nera river by way
of a waterfall.
Before the dam is a big pool fed by a large spring which is used
by the italian national electricity corporation, Enel.
Crossing the small bridge
an the Nera and going up a mule track over the railway, there is a beautiful
view of the whole area.
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